I’ll resist the temptation to quote perhaps the most famous line in fashion-themed cinematic history for the second time in this trend report, Kendricklamar They Not Like Us K.Dot shirt but let’s just say florals are hardly revolutionary when it comes to the warmer months. At least they weren’t until designers decided to double down on the trend and give it the gusto it has long been craving with a new take on blooms. We spotted a plethora of pretty 3D floral embellishments across plenty of collections (how gorgeous are Zimmermann’s waterfall petals?), as well as flowers so giant, they’re giving Alice in Wonderland-levels of psychedelia. “Spring/summer 2024 has moved the conversation so far forward that ditsy prints have left the chat and now we’re on to big, bad blooms,” says Farrell. “Imagine yourself submerged into a three-dimensional garden of plump peonies and trails of forsythias, and you’re a little closer to this year’s take on the ubiquitous print. Embellishment, embroidery and saturated colours are employed to help bring this living garden to life (and in the case of Balmain and Cecilie Bahnsen, you can expect bouquet detailing so real you can almost smell it). In short, 2024 is the year that florals are taking root.”
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The spring/summer 2024 showcase was set against an uncertain economic and political backdrop, Kendricklamar They Not Like Us K.Dot shirt which may have led many designers to approach their collections with extra consideration. The customer has become more mindful too, further aware of their consumption and the downright privilege that it is to be a consumer right now. Yes, there will always be an appetite to shop, but there is a deliberate attempt to be less ostentatious about it (read: there will be far fewer logos this season). Of the trends, many carried on from previous seasons, not just the last. In addition to what Page observed above, from the palette to the prints down to finer details such as jewellery, big bags and ballet flats, it felt like we’d seen much of it all before, but this time with a renewed appeal. No big leaps were made—which is good in terms of our bank balances and wardrobes—and our editors were able to envision themselves wearing much of what they saw in their daily lives. Let’s hear it for the wide-leg trousers!. The more directional trends we did see were there to spark joy at a time when it felt like it might have been in short supply. There was a celebration of colour throughout, which could have quite easily taken over this entire trend report. Red continues to dominate, with Hermès’ designs acting as a stoic antithesis to the candy-pop looks that lined the Versace, Prada and Eudon Choi runways. There was shimmer but with a shakeup; silhouettes were stronger and the overall sweetness was distilled. Florals, for spring? They’ll never be groundbreaking, but with seismic petal proportions and blooms that jump off the toile they’re delicately attached to, there’s new life to be found in the trend that we assumed we’d seen everything from.
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