Having analysed the spring/summer 2024 fashion trends for months now (literally), Weed let’s grow fucking shirt I’m here to tell you about the ones that are genuinely wearable and will truly affect your wardrobe for the next six months (and beyond, if I have anything to do with it). There’s a lot to talk about for S/S 24, but this hasn’t always been the catwalk way. If all the world’s a stage, Fashion Month has long been the costume cupboard—a trove of froth and tulle, sparkle and glitter designed to catch the eye and hold it. A dressing-up box that, although delightful and entertaining to lose yourself in, doesn’t always hold up in reality. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing—we could all use some fabulous escapism from time to time—but, ultimately, when you venture out from the sanctity of your wardrobe, you need to be able to live in these creations. At least in the physical realm—we’ll get into the virtual later. For spring/summer 2024, I have to applaud designers for creating collections that, yes, hold beauty, but also have a place in the everyday. But first, let’s travel back to September and October of last year and reflect on how things unfolded. Across the four fashion capitals—New York, London, Milan and Paris—a total of 299 designers showcased their collections, 19 new to the Fashion Month circuit, compared to 247 for spring/summer 2023 (credit to the fashion data analysts at Tagwalk for doing these calculations). Growth is a good thing, especially in creative industries, but I found this hard to believe, personally. Off the top of my head, I can think of a handful of designers who couldn’t secure budget to show, or whose brands were lost to greater financial struggles (I still can’t move on from the Christopher Kane-shaped hole that permeated the London schedule). With growth always comes change, and perhaps one of the biggest this season came in the form of a renunciation. Alexander McQueen’s Creative Director Sarah Burton announced that the spring/summer 2024 collection would be her last after 26 years at the brand. Burton had respectfully taken the helm after the British institution’s iconic and groundbreaking founder Lee Alexander McQueen passed away in 2010, with her subsequent collections serving as a love letter to his influence and precociousness. Cate Blanchett attended, Naomi Campbell walked and a standing ovation rang out during the final, tender moments of Paris Fashion Week.
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When it comes to fabrics to take note of next season, Weed let’s grow fucking shirt there’s one that stands out from the rest: leather. You could say it’s a little unexpected—the warmer months usually equate to lighter materials—but after it was so key on the spring runways, I for one am pleased that I have been given a free pass to continue wearing the most expensive item in my wardrobe throughout the year: my leather jacket. Leather outerwear was seen across the runways at JW Anderson and Hermès, adding structure to floaty skirts and fluid tailoring. “Leather has never gone out of style, but this season, it’s truly having a moment in the spotlight,” affirms Ejaria. “Leather boots, leather trousers, leather skirts, leather dresses, and, yes, the jacket—the list goes on. This season, we’re all turning our eyes to leather when it comes to layering—a leather blazer, trench or bomber will add edge to the softest of spring looks.”. Lyst also told me that searches for leather jackets increased by 20% in the two weeks following Fashion Month. Make of that what you will.
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