Milan witnessed a big change, too. Old school playlist shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.
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The men’s shows are in full effect in Paris, Old school playlist shirt which means one thing. The streets outside are full of fashion-clad attendees, all wearing the trends that matter for 2022. This season, in addition to platform Crocs and balaclavas, the shortest of hemlines appear to be reigning supreme among the street style crowd. Be they in the form of micro miniskirts or barely-there dresses, pants appear to be taking a back seat to pieces that offer little defense against the elements, despite the winter weather. It comes as no surprise that shrinking hems are such a hit outside of this season’s shows given how prevalent they were on the runways last September. Seen at Miu Miu, Missoni, Versace, Nensi Dojaka, and more spring/summer 2022 shows, minidresses and miniskirts were among the most popular trends of fashion month. So of course, they’d find their way onto the street style scene. But one question remains: How are Paris Fashion Week attendees styling their minis while maintaining some semblance of warmth? See how it’s done ahead.
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