Milan witnessed a big change, too. Eddie Guerrero Latino Heat Legends T-shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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At this point, it’s hard to imagine a time without Bottega Veneta, Eddie Guerrero Latino Heat Legends T-shirt but then again, that’s what we thought about #OldCeline, and here we are. What I’m trying to say (without dragging you into the post–Phoebe Philo Celine depression) is that #NewBottega—run by Creative Director Daniel Lee—has only really been around for a little over a year, but the impact it has already had feels more iconic than ever. The amazing thing about this industry is that even the most settled heritage brands can make a new name for themselves, and thanks to what Lee did with Bottega, we now have a brand that filled the sartorial void that the loss of something as iconic as #OldCeline once occupied. All this industry talk might sound a bit niche, but on a more mainstream scale, this brand has created some of the most talked-about, -purchased, and -photographed items of the entire year—items even people who don’t really care about fashion at all might be able to identify. “Between The Pouch bag and the shoes, Bottega had a huge year. I saw people of all different styles wearing it,” said one of our readers. This means that while, yes, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley owns a small army of The Pouch bags, consumers of all calibers are buying into this brand, and they’re doing it with vigor. “Bottega Veneta for sure. Daniel Lee’s creations dominated the streets,” said street style photographer Acielle of Style du Monde, and since these are the street style awards, this winner seems beyond fitting.