Milan witnessed a big change, too. X-Graduation X-Men of ’97 shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.
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If you needed an excuse to adopt the platform heel trend finally, consider this your sign. X-Graduation X-Men of ’97 shirt While I’ll personally admit to always begging for higher heels, Paris Fashion Week’s street style scene didn’t come to play when it came to pulling out in those platforms. You saw everything from the it-shoes like Valentino Garavani Pumps to knee-high platform booties spotted on those cobblestone streets. There are so many noteworthy color trends, but none dominated the streets of Paris like tangerine. Whoever said orange wasn’t a great color had never seen how French women and the fashion set can take this hue from the formerly food-inspired to fashionable. If you find yourself afraid to incorporate this color into your wardrobe for the rest of the year, simply start small with accessories or single pieces and pair them with your favorite go-to’s. Sorry not sorry, but sets are still very much happening—just look at the street style seen at Paris Fashion Week. From tweed sets to knit sets to matching suit sets, there was no end in sight of powerful pairings. Frankly, we’re not mad about it. This trend is by far the easiest way to channel the French aesthetic without trying too hard. Leather in all its forms has become a beloved staple among the fashion set for the past few seasons, but statement coats came into their own during PFW. While the idea of colorful leather trenches was a trend spotted on F/W 21 runways, in the streets, this trend expanded outside of the color wheel and into new territories (i.e., trenches in patent crocodile leather, two-tones, ultra-long lengths, and leather adorned with unique details).
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