Since attending the shows back in September, I May Live In Oregon But I’ll Always Have The Buffalo Bills In My DNA shirt I’ve recapped well over 10,000 runway outfits (11,542, to be exact) to discern the looks I’d include in this, our bumper spring/summer 2024 fashion trends overview. Some take more time to spot but others jump off the page. And the pretty palette of sky blue was impossible to pass by. According to Tagwalk, light blue looks were up 19% from spring/summer 2023, with 54% more blue looks featuring in the most prevalent designer collections in each city (said prevalence is based on the share of traffic generated by a designer compared to the total traffic of the city). In short, the big names went big on blue. “Like a breath of fresh air, this breezy shade offers a much-needed dose of serenity to the spring/summer palette,” says Natalie Munro, Who What Wear UK news writer. “Fresh and calm, the soft shade injects a youthful edge that can make your styling feel both spirited and sophisticated. On the runways, Alberta Ferretti and Versace favoured monochrome looks, whilst Stella McCartney and Proenza Schouler wove light creams and whites into their cool-blue styling that I just can’t get enough of.” To further confirm this colour shift, fashion shopping destination Lyst reports that searches for blue pieces spiked 125% in the two weeks following Fashion Month. Coincidence? There’s no such thing.

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Milan witnessed a big change, too. Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, I May Live In Oregon But I’ll Always Have The Buffalo Bills In My DNA shirt which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.