At this point, it’s hard to imagine a time without Bottega Veneta, Calum Von Moger Pump Is The Cure Shirt but then again, that’s what we thought about #OldCeline, and here we are. What I’m trying to say (without dragging you into the post–Phoebe Philo Celine depression) is that #NewBottega—run by Creative Director Daniel Lee—has only really been around for a little over a year, but the impact it has already had feels more iconic than ever. The amazing thing about this industry is that even the most settled heritage brands can make a new name for themselves, and thanks to what Lee did with Bottega, we now have a brand that filled the sartorial void that the loss of something as iconic as #OldCeline once occupied. All this industry talk might sound a bit niche, but on a more mainstream scale, this brand has created some of the most talked-about, -purchased, and -photographed items of the entire year—items even people who don’t really care about fashion at all might be able to identify. “Between The Pouch bag and the shoes, Bottega had a huge year. I saw people of all different styles wearing it,” said one of our readers. This means that while, yes, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley owns a small army of The Pouch bags, consumers of all calibers are buying into this brand, and they’re doing it with vigor. “Bottega Veneta for sure. Daniel Lee’s creations dominated the streets,” said street style photographer Acielle of Style du Monde, and since these are the street style awards, this winner seems beyond fitting.

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Last season, there was a clear ’90s directive when it came to minimalism, Calum Von Moger Pump Is The Cure Shirt with logo vests, low-slung trousers and tube dresses as hero items. Now, things have been pared back even further; sure, Y2K maxi skirts and oversized suiting are very much a thing, as witnessed on the runways of Bottega Veneta and BOSS, but the silhouettes are cleaner and the colour palette even more refined. “After the outright outrageousness of various Y2K comebacks, I’m pleased to see a palette-cleansing take on ’90s fashion coming to the fore,” says Who What Wear UK editor-in-chief Hannah Almassi. “This was the peak moment for brands like Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang and many more names whose special brand of clean-cut is being referenced once again for 2024. I’m very much here for this grown-up take on plain outfit ideas, and I think it will be a powerful way to craft a workwear wardrobe in the coming months.”