At this point, it’s hard to imagine a time without Bottega Veneta, John Mellencamp Fuck Authority T-shirt but then again, that’s what we thought about #OldCeline, and here we are. What I’m trying to say (without dragging you into the post–Phoebe Philo Celine depression) is that #NewBottega—run by Creative Director Daniel Lee—has only really been around for a little over a year, but the impact it has already had feels more iconic than ever. The amazing thing about this industry is that even the most settled heritage brands can make a new name for themselves, and thanks to what Lee did with Bottega, we now have a brand that filled the sartorial void that the loss of something as iconic as #OldCeline once occupied. All this industry talk might sound a bit niche, but on a more mainstream scale, this brand has created some of the most talked-about, -purchased, and -photographed items of the entire year—items even people who don’t really care about fashion at all might be able to identify. “Between The Pouch bag and the shoes, Bottega had a huge year. I saw people of all different styles wearing it,” said one of our readers. This means that while, yes, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley owns a small army of The Pouch bags, consumers of all calibers are buying into this brand, and they’re doing it with vigor. “Bottega Veneta for sure. Daniel Lee’s creations dominated the streets,” said street style photographer Acielle of Style du Monde, and since these are the street style awards, this winner seems beyond fitting.
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This season saw a retelling of the romantic narrative that designers flirt with every spring season, John Mellencamp Fuck Authority T-shirt only this time it comes with an edge. There were sweeping gowns to swoon over but with modern translations to balance them out, such as fresh silhouettes, fabric pairings and garment combinations. The runway imagining of the Dakota Johnson adaptation of Persuasion, if you will. For me, the mood is encapsulated by Liberowe’s viral peplum jacket. “I’m a sucker for practicality and so most of my wardrobe consists of classic, capsule basics like black trousers, striped knits and white shirts,” professes Dawes. “But that doesn’t mean there’s not a part of my soul that longs to embrace a world of prettier, more ‘feminine’ fashion. Enter the modern romantics trend; an all-round cooler, fresher and easier way to incorporate chiffon-y pastels, frills and bows into our everyday wardrobes, and an answer to my fashion prayers. “The S/S 24 collections are all about wearability, but this trend is proof that doesn’t have to mean boring. All it takes is layering a flash of pink and lace under a trench coat as seen at Gucci, adding a bow to comfortable kitten heels at Erdem or a cardigan to your favourite full skirt, or pairing pearl earrings with a monochromatic outfit by way of Givenchy. If Marie Antoinette was dressing for 2024, she’d be spearheading this trend for certain.”
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