I’ll resist the temptation to quote perhaps the most famous line in fashion-themed cinematic history for the second time in this trend report, Angle mort 7 combats 6 victoires 1 epine shirt but let’s just say florals are hardly revolutionary when it comes to the warmer months. At least they weren’t until designers decided to double down on the trend and give it the gusto it has long been craving with a new take on blooms. We spotted a plethora of pretty 3D floral embellishments across plenty of collections (how gorgeous are Zimmermann’s waterfall petals?), as well as flowers so giant, they’re giving Alice in Wonderland-levels of psychedelia. “Spring/summer 2024 has moved the conversation so far forward that ditsy prints have left the chat and now we’re on to big, bad blooms,” says Farrell. “Imagine yourself submerged into a three-dimensional garden of plump peonies and trails of forsythias, and you’re a little closer to this year’s take on the ubiquitous print. Embellishment, embroidery and saturated colours are employed to help bring this living garden to life (and in the case of Balmain and Cecilie Bahnsen, you can expect bouquet detailing so real you can almost smell it). In short, 2024 is the year that florals are taking root.”

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Milan witnessed a big change, too. Angle mort 7 combats 6 victoires 1 epine shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.