Milan witnessed a big change, too. Ayo Dosunmu Chicago Bulls Skyline shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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If you thought 2022’s fixation with fashion from the turn of the century hit its peak with micro miniskirts and ultra low-rise jeans, Ayo Dosunmu Chicago Bulls Skyline shirt just wait until you hear about the sartorial sector’s latest obsession. First spotted on the streets of Copenhagen during the city’s runway shows at the beginning of the month, Moon Boots are fast becoming the most-worn footwear trend of the F/W 22 season. And no, I’m not kidding. Following their debut in Copenhagen, the astronaut-inspired knee-high and ankle-high boots that ruled the Sundance Film Festival fashion scene in the early aughts have appeared on show-goers in every city on the Fashion Month circuit, including New York and London. Paired with knee-high leg warmers, slouchy trousers, and minidresses, Moon Boots are proving to be a surprisingly wearable shoe choice, which might be why they’re almost completely sold out. Further fueling their comeback, influencers and celebrities are, too, turning to the style for their end-of-winter wardrobes. Earlier this week, Camille Charriere posted a slideshow on her Instagram showcasing her mini Moon Boots styled with black jeans and a plaid puffer, while Copenhagen-based model Karoline Beltner wore her metallic pair with cargo pants and a shearling jacket. Saving the best for last, Dua Lipa debuted a pair on her Instagram, worn during the current Future Nostalgia tour. In other words, they’re gaining steam fast. And if you want to hop on the Moon-Boot train before every last pair sells out, you’ll have to act fast.