This season saw a retelling of the romantic narrative that designers flirt with every spring season, Behind Every Great Firefighter Who Believes In Himself Unisex T-shirt & Sweatshirt only this time it comes with an edge. There were sweeping gowns to swoon over but with modern translations to balance them out, such as fresh silhouettes, fabric pairings and garment combinations. The runway imagining of the Dakota Johnson adaptation of Persuasion, if you will. For me, the mood is encapsulated by Liberowe’s viral peplum jacket. “I’m a sucker for practicality and so most of my wardrobe consists of classic, capsule basics like black trousers, striped knits and white shirts,” professes Dawes. “But that doesn’t mean there’s not a part of my soul that longs to embrace a world of prettier, more ‘feminine’ fashion. Enter the modern romantics trend; an all-round cooler, fresher and easier way to incorporate chiffon-y pastels, frills and bows into our everyday wardrobes, and an answer to my fashion prayers. “The S/S 24 collections are all about wearability, but this trend is proof that doesn’t have to mean boring. All it takes is layering a flash of pink and lace under a trench coat as seen at Gucci, adding a bow to comfortable kitten heels at Erdem or a cardigan to your favourite full skirt, or pairing pearl earrings with a monochromatic outfit by way of Givenchy. If Marie Antoinette was dressing for 2024, she’d be spearheading this trend for certain.”
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I’ll resist the temptation to quote perhaps the most famous line in fashion-themed cinematic history for the second time in this trend report, Behind Every Great Firefighter Who Believes In Himself Unisex T-shirt & Sweatshirt but let’s just say florals are hardly revolutionary when it comes to the warmer months. At least they weren’t until designers decided to double down on the trend and give it the gusto it has long been craving with a new take on blooms. We spotted a plethora of pretty 3D floral embellishments across plenty of collections (how gorgeous are Zimmermann’s waterfall petals?), as well as flowers so giant, they’re giving Alice in Wonderland-levels of psychedelia. “Spring/summer 2024 has moved the conversation so far forward that ditsy prints have left the chat and now we’re on to big, bad blooms,” says Farrell. “Imagine yourself submerged into a three-dimensional garden of plump peonies and trails of forsythias, and you’re a little closer to this year’s take on the ubiquitous print. Embellishment, embroidery and saturated colours are employed to help bring this living garden to life (and in the case of Balmain and Cecilie Bahnsen, you can expect bouquet detailing so real you can almost smell it). In short, 2024 is the year that florals are taking root.”
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