After spending the first few months of 2021 in the U.K. lockdown, Damn Donde Rifleman Shirt house-bound with very little reason to dress up, I’d forgive you for thinking you never wanted to see a pair of leggings again. And if so, you’re not alone. As we slowly emerge from our collective hibernation and restrictions begin to ease across the country, there seems to be a renewed sense of enthusiasm that comes with getting dressed. Whether it be popping out for a quick coffee with a friend or venturing to your local park, Brits are finding reasons to dress up. Proving exactly this sentiment, last month, photographer Michaela Efford and I ventured to East London’s Broadway Market (a hot spot for fashion lovers, if you don’t already know that) in search of some stylish individuals to photograph. On our way, we serendipitously came across familiar influencers, models-off-duty, fashion designers, and other creatives, all of whom were strolling through their local shopping strip with style to boot. From vintage leather jackets to spring-ready floral dresses and Converse high-tops by the dozen, keep scrolling to see what women are really wearing in London right now.
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Milan witnessed a big change, too. Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, Damn Donde Rifleman Shirt which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.
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