Milan witnessed a big change, too. Fierce Fang T-shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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We often see metallics take over the winter collections, Fierce Fang T-shirt but this spring, there’s a surprisingly fresh range of shimmering pieces that are here to transform metallics into a perennial favourite. Between lamé and satin, brocade and leather and sequins and jewels, never before has the trend been so thoroughly explored. An audible gasp could be heard when Tove’s liquid-gold dress came round the corner, whilst La Pointe’s fabulous silver sequin two-piece sent the paparazzi flashbulbs into a frenzy. “Whilst sequins and metallics never really go out of style, for spring/summer 2024 they’ve had a revamp, with liquid-gold dresses, shimmering chainmail-style creations and glistening silver tailoring adorning the catwalks alongside plenty of sequins and a hefty dose of lamé,” says Nash. “It might not be the most practical of trends—you’re unlikely to see me in a fabulous sparkling two-piece on my commute, I’m afraid—but what I love about it is that it really brings the joy back into dressing. Put on the pieces you normally reserve only for best and shine!”