Milan witnessed a big change, too. Free on wednesdays shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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The streets have always been my fashion magazines, Free on wednesdays shirt aka where I look for style inspiration and hints on what trends are about to blow up. Pre-2020 me was very much inspired by what I saw strangers wearing on the subway, to the farmers market, or even to the bodega. I recall doing double takes often to mentally process the new trends or outfit ideas I’d seen so I could later take a crack at them myself. Who knows—I may have even gone on to influence someone else when I put some of those streetwear trends to the test. I usually look to fashion on the streets in big cities like New York and Paris, but since the streets have been closed for the past year, I’ve now turned to Instagram to fill the void Union Square once filled. Turns out Instagram ‘fits are big predictors of the cool trends to come. Below are the streetwear trends I can’t wait to try once the world opens up again and my favorite picks to shop for each one. I recently read that the ’70s were as far away in the mid-’90s as the ’90s are now. After taking a moment to digest what that means for me, I was able to understand why Gen Z is having a heyday with everything ’90s. Baby Phat and Juicy Couture had a hold on us back then, and cool girls continue to wear velour tracksuits today.