Milan witnessed a big change, too. Freedom in the chat t shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.
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I don’t drink coffee, but something tells me I’m going to develop a caffeine addiction this season. Freedom in the chat t shirt Beige used to be a dirty word in fashion circles, but my, how times have changed. The main character in the quiet-luxury aesthetic, one might argue that the term itself is now dated, but its impact certainly isn’t. With plenty of neutral looks edging on the lighter, caramel side of the colour spectrum, we witnessed the shade being worn top-to-toe by models across all four cities, in every show from Michael Kors to Max Mara. “Every year, I find myself gravitating towards a particular colour which ends up playing the lead role in my wardrobe,” says Joy Ejaria, Who What Wear UK social media editor. “I’ve gone through many phases, and last year’s pink moment still occupies a fond place in my heart. But this year, I want to mute it down a little. We’ve had quite the obsession with dressing like our favourite foods—’vanilla girl’ and ‘tomato girl’ are just two examples. If you thought this trend was on its way out, then think again. This year, I and many others are taking things up a notch and turning our fashion heads to our favourite coffees. The lure of ‘latte dressing’ lies in how easy it is to create expensive-looking outfits, whatever your budget.”. “Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m fully expecting the backlash of stealth wealth and quiet luxury to begin shortly, but in terms of what people actually want to wear? They’re after items that feel realistic for their lives,” says Block. “That means black trousers that are cut just right, knitwear that looks good whether you’ve thrown it over a pair of joggers or a slip dress and a classic white shirt. Even major brands such as Versace—usually known for its mega-glam pieces— are leaning into ’90s minimalism, along with the likes of Bottega Veneta and Coach. Even though this trend has been around for a few seasons, it’s so easy to slot into any current wardrobe as it provides the timelessness that plenty of buyers are after. Similarly muted tones over at Rabanne, Carolina Herrera and Maxamillian Davis’ Ferragamo were also pushing the more ‘wearable’ concept, with the latte-dressing trend continuing from last season and well into next.”
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