Last season, there was a clear ’90s directive when it came to minimalism, Georgia Bulldogs Forever Not Just When We Win T-Shirt with logo vests, low-slung trousers and tube dresses as hero items. Now, things have been pared back even further; sure, Y2K maxi skirts and oversized suiting are very much a thing, as witnessed on the runways of Bottega Veneta and BOSS, but the silhouettes are cleaner and the colour palette even more refined. “After the outright outrageousness of various Y2K comebacks, I’m pleased to see a palette-cleansing take on ’90s fashion coming to the fore,” says Who What Wear UK editor-in-chief Hannah Almassi. “This was the peak moment for brands like Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang and many more names whose special brand of clean-cut is being referenced once again for 2024. I’m very much here for this grown-up take on plain outfit ideas, and I think it will be a powerful way to craft a workwear wardrobe in the coming months.”

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This bold outfit features two of Tokyo’s big trends—oversize bottoms with wide-leg striped pants and pops of primary colors, Georgia Bulldogs Forever Not Just When We Win T-Shirt and yellow graphic T-shirts balanced out by a bold red lip and matching heels. When the outfit takes a more subdued approach to color, interest is created by playing with proportions and incorporating unexpected textures. This oversize and intentionally ill-fitted suede coat does both of those things, and it finds footing with statement black leather shoes. It would be an understatement to reduce this floor-length canary yellow duster to a “pop of primary color.” Paired with the unexpected textures of a fur under layer, a bamboo handbag, and bold statement jewelry, the only subtle part of the outfit is the black leather boots. This denim jumpsuit look requires few additional accessories to make a statement. If you look closely, you’ll see that it’s actually a pair of wide-leg overalls topped off with a matching jean jacket. Black leather platform brogues give the denim-on-denim look an added cool factor, and the army-green bomber jacket brings it all together in colder weather. A true jumpsuit, the head-to-toe khaki look is livened up by a pop of primary color via the patterned silk scarf worn as a neckerchief. The jumpsuit’s large fit is made chic with a black belt tied tightly at the waist and oversize bottoms tucked into black satin ankle boots. A tweed jacket and Mary Janes worn with socks make this ensemble wonderfully retro, but the bright pop of yellow and round sunglasses keep the look forward-thinking and cool.