Milan witnessed a big change, too. HIKING GIVE A GIRL THE RIGHT SHOES Unisex Tshirt, Cotton Womenswear, High durability non-shrink fabric Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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When it comes to fabrics to take note of next season, HIKING GIVE A GIRL THE RIGHT SHOES Unisex Tshirt, Cotton Womenswear, High durability non-shrink fabric there’s one that stands out from the rest: leather. You could say it’s a little unexpected—the warmer months usually equate to lighter materials—but after it was so key on the spring runways, I for one am pleased that I have been given a free pass to continue wearing the most expensive item in my wardrobe throughout the year: my leather jacket. Leather outerwear was seen across the runways at JW Anderson and Hermès, adding structure to floaty skirts and fluid tailoring. “Leather has never gone out of style, but this season, it’s truly having a moment in the spotlight,” affirms Ejaria. “Leather boots, leather trousers, leather skirts, leather dresses, and, yes, the jacket—the list goes on. This season, we’re all turning our eyes to leather when it comes to layering—a leather blazer, trench or bomber will add edge to the softest of spring looks.”. Lyst also told me that searches for leather jackets increased by 20% in the two weeks following Fashion Month. Make of that what you will.