Milan witnessed a big change, too. Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, Hotel Bella Muerte T-shirt which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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My obsession with relaxed tailoring reached an all-time high after I spotted the outfit trend that’s really taking off recently: Hotel Bella Muerte T-shirt wide-leg pants. While it’s a trend that has been on the rise for some time now, you actually can’t ignore the impact it has been making. The street style outfits from Copenhagen Fashion Week really cemented the trend, and I’m calling it out as a key buy for fall. The wide-leg pants we’re seeing have really relaxed silhouettes and long hemlines. Fashion insiders are pairing them with everything from crochet tanks and crop tops to matching blazers and bold accessories, so if you’re looking for inspiration for how to wear them, there’s no shortage of cool ideas. Here, see how the fashion set is wearing wide-leg pants and shop my edit of pieces to test-drive the fall ‘fits for yourself. While crochet might make you think of summer, this outfit proves that you can transition the knit tanks to fall by pairing them with wide-leg pants. Upsized proportions make this vest-and-trouser pairing feel so on-trend and just plain cool. I want to replicate this look from head to toe. Saturated shades are going to be huge this fall. There’s simply no denying it. If you’re wondering how to pull them off, go for a matching suit in relaxed proportions.