When temperatures rise and faux fur is removed from the agenda, Im Cooked ILLegal Shirts designers look for new ways to add texture to their collections—pieces with movement that bring the runway to life. And this season, fringe proved to be the order of the day. Taller Marmo’s creations have become beloved by fashion people in recent years, and now it seems everyone else wants a slice of the action, too. “Fringe is often used to bring an element of fun texture to an otherwise basic outfit, which might explain why it was everywhere this past party season,” says Annie Wheatland-Clinch, assistant social media editor at Who What Wear UK. “Still, as much as a tasseled treasure can feel like a special touch, it can quickly veer into generic after the first few wears. This is why this season’s array of contemporary interpretations is a welcome refresh—from bright colours and metallics to playful plastics and ropes, pieces from Jil Sander and Celine give us hope that this novelty trend has staying power, at least for another season or two.”
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Last season, there was a clear ’90s directive when it came to minimalism, Im Cooked ILLegal Shirts with logo vests, low-slung trousers and tube dresses as hero items. Now, things have been pared back even further; sure, Y2K maxi skirts and oversized suiting are very much a thing, as witnessed on the runways of Bottega Veneta and BOSS, but the silhouettes are cleaner and the colour palette even more refined. “After the outright outrageousness of various Y2K comebacks, I’m pleased to see a palette-cleansing take on ’90s fashion coming to the fore,” says Who What Wear UK editor-in-chief Hannah Almassi. “This was the peak moment for brands like Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang and many more names whose special brand of clean-cut is being referenced once again for 2024. I’m very much here for this grown-up take on plain outfit ideas, and I think it will be a powerful way to craft a workwear wardrobe in the coming months.”
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