Milan witnessed a big change, too. Jonathan Owens Wearing Power Of She Shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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I’m in no way athletically inclined (something my P.E. teacher will still back up to this day), Jonathan Owens Wearing Power Of She Shirt but now I can finally feel part of the team as sporting stripes—the sort seen in rugby, cricket and other ball sports (I assume)—ran throughout the collections. All of fashion will agree that Dries Van Noten did it best by way of lounge pants and minidresses, whilst Victoria Beckham took the knitted approach with a sweater. A pre-kick-off moment for Gucci’s new Jackie bag offering, too, which collectors will be batting one another out of the way to get their hands on. “Across the board, brands are retiring streamlined stripes for something a little more playful,” says Munro. “Tapping into the sporty side of the print, the colourful trend is a refreshing retort to the past season’s obsession with a quieter palette. Styling well with easy denim and basic tees, these wearable stripes are set to transcend the runways in 2024.”. “Casual daywear has a preppy new mood as designers reimagined the classic polo and rugby shirts,” confirms Wiggins. “Our edit for S/S 24 has grown by 48% vs. last year and offers a variety of options, from Sacai’s pleated polo dress to Dries Van Noten’s colourful, oversized rugby shirts. For a modern take, style with sequins, as seen at 16Arlington.”