Milan witnessed a big change, too. Kaia Gerber Come To My House I Have Great Books Shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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This season saw a retelling of the romantic narrative that designers flirt with every spring season, Kaia Gerber Come To My House I Have Great Books Shirt only this time it comes with an edge. There were sweeping gowns to swoon over but with modern translations to balance them out, such as fresh silhouettes, fabric pairings and garment combinations. The runway imagining of the Dakota Johnson adaptation of Persuasion, if you will. For me, the mood is encapsulated by Liberowe’s viral peplum jacket. “I’m a sucker for practicality and so most of my wardrobe consists of classic, capsule basics like black trousers, striped knits and white shirts,” professes Dawes. “But that doesn’t mean there’s not a part of my soul that longs to embrace a world of prettier, more ‘feminine’ fashion. Enter the modern romantics trend; an all-round cooler, fresher and easier way to incorporate chiffon-y pastels, frills and bows into our everyday wardrobes, and an answer to my fashion prayers.”The S/S 24 collections are all about wearability, but this trend is proof that doesn’t have to mean boring. All it takes is layering a flash of pink and lace under a trench coat as seen at Gucci, adding a bow to comfortable kitten heels at Erdem or a cardigan to your favourite full skirt, or pairing pearl earrings with a monochromatic outfit by way of Givenchy. If Marie Antoinette was dressing for 2024, she’d be spearheading this trend for certain.”. “Organza, lace, intricate ruffles, and 3D florals all came together in the S/S 24 collections to create a new, undone way of dressing that wasn’t overtly girly,” adds Page. “Instead, designers injected a modern refinement into these ethereal pieces. A pastel palette was integral to this mood, ranging from sugary-sweet lilacs to translucent pinks. Versace’s collection was a literal take on this feminine trend, and we have bought 16 runway looks that will be delivered to Net-a-Porter customers one week ahead of any other retailer.”