Milan witnessed a big change, too. Koyo Tour Island Hardcore T-shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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This bold outfit features two of Tokyo’s big trends—oversize bottoms with wide-leg striped pants and pops of primary colors, Koyo Tour Island Hardcore T-shirt and yellow graphic T-shirts balanced out by a bold red lip and matching heels. When the outfit takes a more subdued approach to color, interest is created by playing with proportions and incorporating unexpected textures. This oversize and intentionally ill-fitted suede coat does both of those things, and it finds footing with statement black leather shoes. It would be an understatement to reduce this floor-length canary yellow duster to a “pop of primary color.” Paired with the unexpected textures of a fur under layer, a bamboo handbag, and bold statement jewelry, the only subtle part of the outfit is the black leather boots. This denim jumpsuit look requires few additional accessories to make a statement. If you look closely, you’ll see that it’s actually a pair of wide-leg overalls topped off with a matching jean jacket. Black leather platform brogues give the denim-on-denim look an added cool factor, and the army-green bomber jacket brings it all together in colder weather. A true jumpsuit, the head-to-toe khaki look is livened up by a pop of primary color via the patterned silk scarf worn as a neckerchief. The jumpsuit’s large fit is made chic with a black belt tied tightly at the waist and oversize bottoms tucked into black satin ankle boots. A tweed jacket and Mary Janes worn with socks make this ensemble wonderfully retro, but the bright pop of yellow and round sunglasses keep the look forward-thinking and cool.