Having analysed the spring/summer 2024 fashion trends for months now (literally), Obama Hope Trump Hate Biden Heal Harris Grow It’s All About Timing Shirt I’m here to tell you about the ones that are genuinely wearable and will truly affect your wardrobe for the next six months (and beyond, if I have anything to do with it). There’s a lot to talk about for S/S 24, but this hasn’t always been the catwalk way. If all the world’s a stage, Fashion Month has long been the costume cupboard—a trove of froth and tulle, sparkle and glitter designed to catch the eye and hold it. A dressing-up box that, although delightful and entertaining to lose yourself in, doesn’t always hold up in reality. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing—we could all use some fabulous escapism from time to time—but, ultimately, when you venture out from the sanctity of your wardrobe, you need to be able to live in these creations. At least in the physical realm—we’ll get into the virtual later. For spring/summer 2024, I have to applaud designers for creating collections that, yes, hold beauty, but also have a place in the everyday. But first, let’s travel back to September and October of last year and reflect on how things unfolded. Across the four fashion capitals—New York, London, Milan and Paris—a total of 299 designers showcased their collections, 19 new to the Fashion Month circuit, compared to 247 for spring/summer 2023 (credit to the fashion data analysts at Tagwalk for doing these calculations). Growth is a good thing, especially in creative industries, but I found this hard to believe, personally. Off the top of my head, I can think of a handful of designers who couldn’t secure budget to show, or whose brands were lost to greater financial struggles (I still can’t move on from the Christopher Kane-shaped hole that permeated the London schedule). With growth always comes change, and perhaps one of the biggest this season came in the form of a renunciation. Alexander McQueen’s Creative Director Sarah Burton announced that the spring/summer 2024 collection would be her last after 26 years at the brand. Burton had respectfully taken the helm after the British institution’s iconic and groundbreaking founder Lee Alexander McQueen passed away in 2010, with her subsequent collections serving as a love letter to his influence and precociousness. Cate Blanchett attended, Naomi Campbell walked and a standing ovation rang out during the final, tender moments of Paris Fashion Week.
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This season saw a retelling of the romantic narrative that designers flirt with every spring season, Obama Hope Trump Hate Biden Heal Harris Grow It’s All About Timing Shirt only this time it comes with an edge. There were sweeping gowns to swoon over but with modern translations to balance them out, such as fresh silhouettes, fabric pairings and garment combinations. The runway imagining of the Dakota Johnson adaptation of Persuasion, if you will. For me, the mood is encapsulated by Liberowe’s viral peplum jacket. “I’m a sucker for practicality and so most of my wardrobe consists of classic, capsule basics like black trousers, striped knits and white shirts,” professes Dawes. “But that doesn’t mean there’s not a part of my soul that longs to embrace a world of prettier, more ‘feminine’ fashion. Enter the modern romantics trend; an all-round cooler, fresher and easier way to incorporate chiffon-y pastels, frills and bows into our everyday wardrobes, and an answer to my fashion prayers. “The S/S 24 collections are all about wearability, but this trend is proof that doesn’t have to mean boring. All it takes is layering a flash of pink and lace under a trench coat as seen at Gucci, adding a bow to comfortable kitten heels at Erdem or a cardigan to your favourite full skirt, or pairing pearl earrings with a monochromatic outfit by way of Givenchy. If Marie Antoinette was dressing for 2024, she’d be spearheading this trend for certain.”
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