Having analysed the spring/summer 2024 fashion trends for months now (literally), Once Upon A Time There Was A Girl Who Really Loved Goats Unisex T-shirt & Sweatshirt I’m here to tell you about the ones that are genuinely wearable and will truly affect your wardrobe for the next six months (and beyond, if I have anything to do with it). There’s a lot to talk about for S/S 24, but this hasn’t always been the catwalk way. If all the world’s a stage, Fashion Month has long been the costume cupboard—a trove of froth and tulle, sparkle and glitter designed to catch the eye and hold it. A dressing-up box that, although delightful and entertaining to lose yourself in, doesn’t always hold up in reality. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing—we could all use some fabulous escapism from time to time—but, ultimately, when you venture out from the sanctity of your wardrobe, you need to be able to live in these creations. At least in the physical realm—we’ll get into the virtual later. For spring/summer 2024, I have to applaud designers for creating collections that, yes, hold beauty, but also have a place in the everyday. But first, let’s travel back to September and October of last year and reflect on how things unfolded. Across the four fashion capitals—New York, London, Milan and Paris—a total of 299 designers showcased their collections, 19 new to the Fashion Month circuit, compared to 247 for spring/summer 2023 (credit to the fashion data analysts at Tagwalk for doing these calculations). Growth is a good thing, especially in creative industries, but I found this hard to believe, personally. Off the top of my head, I can think of a handful of designers who couldn’t secure budget to show, or whose brands were lost to greater financial struggles (I still can’t move on from the Christopher Kane-shaped hole that permeated the London schedule). With growth always comes change, and perhaps one of the biggest this season came in the form of a renunciation. Alexander McQueen’s Creative Director Sarah Burton announced that the spring/summer 2024 collection would be her last after 26 years at the brand. Burton had respectfully taken the helm after the British institution’s iconic and groundbreaking founder Lee Alexander McQueen passed away in 2010, with her subsequent collections serving as a love letter to his influence and precociousness. Cate Blanchett attended, Naomi Campbell walked and a standing ovation rang out during the final, tender moments of Paris Fashion Week.
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At this point, it’s hard to imagine a time without Bottega Veneta, Once Upon A Time There Was A Girl Who Really Loved Goats Unisex T-shirt & Sweatshirt but then again, that’s what we thought about #OldCeline, and here we are. What I’m trying to say (without dragging you into the post–Phoebe Philo Celine depression) is that #NewBottega—run by Creative Director Daniel Lee—has only really been around for a little over a year, but the impact it has already had feels more iconic than ever. The amazing thing about this industry is that even the most settled heritage brands can make a new name for themselves, and thanks to what Lee did with Bottega, we now have a brand that filled the sartorial void that the loss of something as iconic as #OldCeline once occupied. All this industry talk might sound a bit niche, but on a more mainstream scale, this brand has created some of the most talked-about, -purchased, and -photographed items of the entire year—items even people who don’t really care about fashion at all might be able to identify. “Between The Pouch bag and the shoes, Bottega had a huge year. I saw people of all different styles wearing it,” said one of our readers. This means that while, yes, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley owns a small army of The Pouch bags, consumers of all calibers are buying into this brand, and they’re doing it with vigor. “Bottega Veneta for sure. Daniel Lee’s creations dominated the streets,” said street style photographer Acielle of Style du Monde, and since these are the street style awards, this winner seems beyond fitting.
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