Designers have become incredibly diplomatic, Rece Hinds Hindsight T-shirt as I’ve just explained at dissertation length. Extending the lifespan of trends from not just the previous season, but from the three before it, it’s easy to see that the exploration of finding joy in everyday garments is still at the heart of the high-end collections, which was perfectly summarised during Net-a-Porter’s biannual trends presentation. “At Net-a-Porter, our biggest mood for the season, The Extraordinary Everyday, does exactly what the title says—making everyday clothes become extraordinary,” explains Page. This is about elevating the essential items in our daily wardrobes to new heights of exceptional design and style. I can’t stop thinking about Khaite’s tank dress, infused with sculptural organza—it’s casual but striking and makes the perfect addition to a capsule wardrobe.”. “The runways are proving that even the foundations can be head-turners,” says Who What Wear UK’s commerce writer Florrie Alexander. “Designers left bells and whistles at the door, allowing craftspersonship and design prowess to be the main event this season. Note the delicate pleating of JW Anderson’s trench coat or the sublime cut of Stella McCartney’s tuxedo shirt. Whether sticking to complete classics or creating a staple style with a twist, the pared-back, well-made and carefully curated revolution continues for 2024.”

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Milan witnessed a big change, too. Rece Hinds Hindsight T-shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.