Milan witnessed a big change, too. Self love means let go shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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Working in fashion comes with plenty of moments to feel inspired, Self love means let go shirt whether it’s experiencing a runway show, seeing a photo shoot come to life, or watching the industry come together in support of important initiatives such as sustainability. Personally, one of the things that inspire me most is the discovery of new talent. Whether uncovering a brand on Instagram or an emerging label at fashion week, I always get a ping of excitement when I find fresh designers that bring new voices to the world of fashion. Often, young talent is spotted early on the street style scene with a mix of in-the-know editors, buyers, and influencers wearing the brands they support. So which up-and-coming labels should we expect to see this season? Ahead, I’m highlighting nine emerging brands that will define street style this month. From affordable pieces to investment buys, these are the cool fashion brands to know about now. Frankie Shop is already a favorite on the street style scene, and I expect it will blow up this year. It has a great collection of tailored separates that hit on the year’s biggest trends.