Milan witnessed a big change, too. Sis don’t let nobody save you for later read that again shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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Maybe all French girls are blessed with excellent pins like Ellie from Slip Into Style, Sis don’t let nobody save you for later read that again shirt or perhaps they just know exactly how to play out a slashed-to-there hemline and not look overdone. We love the flirty, casual ratio of a marl tee and flats with a revealing skirt. As any well put-together French maven will tell you, there is nothing less attractive than hobbling around in high heels. It’s all about looking cool and breezy. It’s no wonder many French girls (like influencer Anne-Laure Mais of Adenorah) turn to classic brands for classic pieces. For example, Karl Lagerfeld never produces sky-high stilettos at Chanel—just clever ones like the toe-cap mules that you can slip on and off and last in all day. Anne-Laure’s simple two-strap sandals are actually from her own brand, Musier Paris. No self-respecting French girl would consider their wardrobe complete without a blazer (or 10). They are the beautifully tailored glue that holds all looks together. We’re not talking about waist-cinching of the extreme variety, but French women always make sure that their figure is in some way in check—even when wearing loose-fitting clothes. Blogger Aria Di Bari provides an excellent example: A shapeless tunic gets the right treatment by this nonchalantly knotted belt. Anne-Laure Mais has a similar approach to Carine Roitfeld when it comes to sultry dressing: It’s all about a 50/50 ratio. Yes, you can see she’s wearing a bodiced black dress with a thigh slit (with no bra, in true français fashion), but the rest of her look is disheveled and relaxed. Walking this line successfully? It’s all down to confidence.