Milan witnessed a big change, too. South Carolina Kamilla Cardoso Shoot It shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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Comfort is more than a trend—it’s a state of mind. South Carolina Kamilla Cardoso Shoot It shirt For many of us, the relaxed vibes we get from wearing our favourite loungewear is something we’d very much like to carry into other aspects of our wardrobes, and spring/summer’s exploration of drapery is the key. “It’s no wonder that draped, ruched and artfully pleated fabrics continue to dominate the fashion arena,” says Almassi. “They are the true definition of comfortable, flattering clothes because they flex and change to suit the wearer, working around the curves of a body or adding shape where it might be desired. Not only that, but there’s always something reminiscent of romantic times of yore; Grecian goddesses, beautifully carved marble statues and swathes of Victorian taffeta come to mind, and I can’t help but fall in love with the charm of it all.” Fashion likes to work in extremes. Typically, you have the overtly oversized and the impossibly teeny tiny, and everything in between is something of a footnote. For the past few seasons, including spring/summer 2024, the former has reigned in terms of bags. “Whilst there will always be a place for the fantastical on the runway, there’s been a recent emphasis on wearability in fashion. From loose, wide-leg trousers to the rise of the flat shoe, combining style and function has become the order of the day for many of our favourite designers,” notes Alexander. “For the new season, designers demonstrated that wearability has diffused to accessories, too. Bottega Veneta plumped up its iconic intrecciato weave to a new, dominating shape, whilst Max Mara took practicality to heart with multi-storage solutions on its arm candy. It’s time to rejoice, over-packers, as both Tibi and The Row declared that even the humble clutch can be supersized.”. “In 2024, the anti-gym bag—oversized totes, weekenders, and mesh shopping bags—will be our new, versatile companions,” confirms Page. “Keep an eye out for Bottega Veneta’s luxurious basket bag—a true gem.” To further this point, Lyst also reports that searches for tote bags increased by 230% in the four weeks following Fashion Month.