Having analysed the spring/summer 2024 fashion trends for months now (literally), Toronto Blue Jays Mr. Seeds Teoscar Hernández shirt I’m here to tell you about the ones that are genuinely wearable and will truly affect your wardrobe for the next six months (and beyond, if I have anything to do with it). There’s a lot to talk about for S/S 24, but this hasn’t always been the catwalk way. If all the world’s a stage, Fashion Month has long been the costume cupboard—a trove of froth and tulle, sparkle and glitter designed to catch the eye and hold it. A dressing-up box that, although delightful and entertaining to lose yourself in, doesn’t always hold up in reality. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing—we could all use some fabulous escapism from time to time—but, ultimately, when you venture out from the sanctity of your wardrobe, you need to be able to live in these creations. At least in the physical realm—we’ll get into the virtual later. For spring/summer 2024, I have to applaud designers for creating collections that, yes, hold beauty, but also have a place in the everyday. But first, let’s travel back to September and October of last year and reflect on how things unfolded. Across the four fashion capitals—New York, London, Milan and Paris—a total of 299 designers showcased their collections, 19 new to the Fashion Month circuit, compared to 247 for spring/summer 2023 (credit to the fashion data analysts at Tagwalk for doing these calculations). Growth is a good thing, especially in creative industries, but I found this hard to believe, personally. Off the top of my head, I can think of a handful of designers who couldn’t secure budget to show, or whose brands were lost to greater financial struggles (I still can’t move on from the Christopher Kane-shaped hole that permeated the London schedule). With growth always comes change, and perhaps one of the biggest this season came in the form of a renunciation. Alexander McQueen’s Creative Director Sarah Burton announced that the spring/summer 2024 collection would be her last after 26 years at the brand. Burton had respectfully taken the helm after the British institution’s iconic and groundbreaking founder Lee Alexander McQueen passed away in 2010, with her subsequent collections serving as a love letter to his influence and precociousness. Cate Blanchett attended, Naomi Campbell walked and a standing ovation rang out during the final, tender moments of Paris Fashion Week.
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The spring/summer 2024 showcase was set against an uncertain economic and political backdrop, Toronto Blue Jays Mr. Seeds Teoscar Hernández shirt which may have led many designers to approach their collections with extra consideration. The customer has become more mindful too, further aware of their consumption and the downright privilege that it is to be a consumer right now. Yes, there will always be an appetite to shop, but there is a deliberate attempt to be less ostentatious about it (read: there will be far fewer logos this season). Of the trends, many carried on from previous seasons, not just the last. In addition to what Page observed above, from the palette to the prints down to finer details such as jewellery, big bags and ballet flats, it felt like we’d seen much of it all before, but this time with a renewed appeal. No big leaps were made—which is good in terms of our bank balances and wardrobes—and our editors were able to envision themselves wearing much of what they saw in their daily lives. Let’s hear it for the wide-leg trousers!. The more directional trends we did see were there to spark joy at a time when it felt like it might have been in short supply. There was a celebration of colour throughout, which could have quite easily taken over this entire trend report. Red continues to dominate, with Hermès’ designs acting as a stoic antithesis to the candy-pop looks that lined the Versace, Prada and Eudon Choi runways. There was shimmer but with a shakeup; silhouettes were stronger and the overall sweetness was distilled. Florals, for spring? They’ll never be groundbreaking, but with seismic petal proportions and blooms that jump off the toile they’re delicately attached to, there’s new life to be found in the trend that we assumed we’d seen everything from.
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