Last season, there was a clear ’90s directive when it came to minimalism, Zendaya big face shirt with logo vests, low-slung trousers and tube dresses as hero items. Now, things have been pared back even further; sure, Y2K maxi skirts and oversized suiting are very much a thing, as witnessed on the runways of Bottega Veneta and BOSS, but the silhouettes are cleaner and the colour palette even more refined. “After the outright outrageousness of various Y2K comebacks, I’m pleased to see a palette-cleansing take on ’90s fashion coming to the fore,” says Who What Wear UK editor-in-chief Hannah Almassi. “This was the peak moment for brands like Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang and many more names whose special brand of clean-cut is being referenced once again for 2024. I’m very much here for this grown-up take on plain outfit ideas, and I think it will be a powerful way to craft a workwear wardrobe in the coming months.”
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I’ll resist the temptation to quote perhaps the most famous line in fashion-themed cinematic history for the second time in this trend report, Zendaya big face shirt but let’s just say florals are hardly revolutionary when it comes to the warmer months. At least they weren’t until designers decided to double down on the trend and give it the gusto it has long been craving with a new take on blooms. We spotted a plethora of pretty 3D floral embellishments across plenty of collections (how gorgeous are Zimmermann’s waterfall petals?), as well as flowers so giant, they’re giving Alice in Wonderland-levels of psychedelia. “Spring/summer 2024 has moved the conversation so far forward that ditsy prints have left the chat and now we’re on to big, bad blooms,” says Farrell. “Imagine yourself submerged into a three-dimensional garden of plump peonies and trails of forsythias, and you’re a little closer to this year’s take on the ubiquitous print. Embellishment, embroidery and saturated colours are employed to help bring this living garden to life (and in the case of Balmain and Cecilie Bahnsen, you can expect bouquet detailing so real you can almost smell it). In short, 2024 is the year that florals are taking root.”
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